The Ultimate Cheat Sheet On Audi G28
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작성자 Shelli 작성일24-11-07 17:56 조회2회 댓글0건본문
How to Replace an audi a1 key G28 Engine Speed Sensor
Charles the Humble Technician shows you how to replace the G28 Engine Speed Sensor. The sensor is situated at the top of the transmission above the flywheel ring gear. It transmits a signal to the ECU through an uncolored wire T55/49, then to the tachometer in the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
It is located on the outside of the transmission, above the flywheel ring gear, the G28 Engine Speed Sensor sends signals to ECU pin T55/49 using the grey wire. The ECU uses this information to regulate fuel and boost. It also sends an indication to the G5 tachometer in the instrument cluster.
The sensor is used to link with the G40 Camshaft position Sensor. The ecu needs to know when the crankshaft is TDC and where the camshaft is located so that it can trigger spark and injectors according to the situation.
If this sensor fails the ECU will throw an error code P00160 which indicates that the Crank Shaft and Intake Camshaft are out of sync, possibly indicating chain stretch or a jumped link on the upper chain of timing. The code won't show without the additional information provided by other sensors (G4 or G40).
Testing is a bit tricky because there are two connector pins, and they perform different functions but the most effective way to test it is to measure resistance between the sensor and the ECU. If the sensor is functional, it should read around 1000 ohms. If you're having issues with this sensor, look for signs of coolant or oil in the connector bay.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, while accelerating from the highway paytoll at maximum speed, i noticed a huge decrease in power. It was as if the engine was running out of gas. Or, my injectors weren't firing. I pulled out the spark plugs this morning and found that 3 were soaked in gasoline, and the 4th was dry. When I crank the engine with no sparks, I put a piece of tissue on top of each injector hole and the 3 drenched with gazoline pop out, but the 4th stay shut. I checked the ground connection of ECU pins 14,30 and 48/55. I got zero ohm. I think the issue is elsewhere.
I also tried to reset the PID without success. The car will start when the G28 is disconnected, but it is running fine with the G28 connected. However the intermittent misfire issue persists at higher RPM. The coolant sensor (G62), even when unplugged, still shows a temperature of -49c. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bars when the actual pressure is zero.
I'm not sure what to do. I feel like i've pretty much all other possibilities out. I'm concerned that i may have missed something. Let me know If you have any suggestions! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump on the g28 is activated by a signal sent by the RPM sensor. The GM-style transmitter is similar to the G4 sender, and both operate on the 80,100,200, UrS, and RS2 vehicles. You can easily locate the spare in a salvage shop or parts store. Testing them is easy - put your DMM in resistance mode and measure between pins 1 (with the bump on the connector's end up) and 2 (2nd from left on the black connector's end). They should be infinite Ohms.
4. ECU
The ECU in our 20vt turbo (3B AAN ABY ADU) engines needs to know both the position and speed the crankshaft to determine fuel injector timing, etc. To accomplish this, it uses a Crank Position Sensor (G4) and an Engine Speed Sensor (G28). If either of these goes bad you will get codes on the diagnostic scanner which can lead to engine shutdown.
A damaged G28 sensor could cause an inaccurate gearbox speed counter, a gearbox that shifts more quickly than normal, or a misfire while in the gear. It is likely that your sensor is failing and requires to be replaced if you experience any of these symptoms. The good news is that they are quite affordable and easy to find particularly when you're looking at the Bosch unit which is what we have. Alternatively, the GM version of this part is also a good option.
5. Tachometer
A faulty engine speed sensor could be the cause of a slew of issues in your vehicle. It's an essential component of your audi car key's transmission, since it relays information to the ECU about how fast or slow the vehicle's crankshaft is rotating. This sensor could cause the transmission to malfunction and other components of the car to be affected.
The G5 engine sensor is located near the edge of the transmission, just above the flywheel ring. It sends signals via gray wire to ECU pin T55/49. The ECU utilizes this signal to control the amount of fuel and boost, and also timig. It also transmits it to the G5 Tachometer in instrument cluster. You can test the sensor audi tt replacement key for failure by examining the continuity between it and the tachometer, between the ECU pin T55/49 and the instrument cluster connection to pin T6a/1 (trace [79trace [79]) as well as between T6a/1, and the instrument cluster pin T26a/12. It should show around 1000 ohms of resistance between these two points. This part is common across the Audi Key Blade 80-100-200-RS2 series, starting from the 1985 MC all the way up to the 1997 UrS AN and the 1995 RS2 DU You may also find some good ones in wrecking yards.
Charles the Humble Technician shows you how to replace the G28 Engine Speed Sensor. The sensor is situated at the top of the transmission above the flywheel ring gear. It transmits a signal to the ECU through an uncolored wire T55/49, then to the tachometer in the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
It is located on the outside of the transmission, above the flywheel ring gear, the G28 Engine Speed Sensor sends signals to ECU pin T55/49 using the grey wire. The ECU uses this information to regulate fuel and boost. It also sends an indication to the G5 tachometer in the instrument cluster.
The sensor is used to link with the G40 Camshaft position Sensor. The ecu needs to know when the crankshaft is TDC and where the camshaft is located so that it can trigger spark and injectors according to the situation.
If this sensor fails the ECU will throw an error code P00160 which indicates that the Crank Shaft and Intake Camshaft are out of sync, possibly indicating chain stretch or a jumped link on the upper chain of timing. The code won't show without the additional information provided by other sensors (G4 or G40).
Testing is a bit tricky because there are two connector pins, and they perform different functions but the most effective way to test it is to measure resistance between the sensor and the ECU. If the sensor is functional, it should read around 1000 ohms. If you're having issues with this sensor, look for signs of coolant or oil in the connector bay.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, while accelerating from the highway paytoll at maximum speed, i noticed a huge decrease in power. It was as if the engine was running out of gas. Or, my injectors weren't firing. I pulled out the spark plugs this morning and found that 3 were soaked in gasoline, and the 4th was dry. When I crank the engine with no sparks, I put a piece of tissue on top of each injector hole and the 3 drenched with gazoline pop out, but the 4th stay shut. I checked the ground connection of ECU pins 14,30 and 48/55. I got zero ohm. I think the issue is elsewhere.
I also tried to reset the PID without success. The car will start when the G28 is disconnected, but it is running fine with the G28 connected. However the intermittent misfire issue persists at higher RPM. The coolant sensor (G62), even when unplugged, still shows a temperature of -49c. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bars when the actual pressure is zero.
I'm not sure what to do. I feel like i've pretty much all other possibilities out. I'm concerned that i may have missed something. Let me know If you have any suggestions! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump on the g28 is activated by a signal sent by the RPM sensor. The GM-style transmitter is similar to the G4 sender, and both operate on the 80,100,200, UrS, and RS2 vehicles. You can easily locate the spare in a salvage shop or parts store. Testing them is easy - put your DMM in resistance mode and measure between pins 1 (with the bump on the connector's end up) and 2 (2nd from left on the black connector's end). They should be infinite Ohms.
4. ECU
The ECU in our 20vt turbo (3B AAN ABY ADU) engines needs to know both the position and speed the crankshaft to determine fuel injector timing, etc. To accomplish this, it uses a Crank Position Sensor (G4) and an Engine Speed Sensor (G28). If either of these goes bad you will get codes on the diagnostic scanner which can lead to engine shutdown.
A damaged G28 sensor could cause an inaccurate gearbox speed counter, a gearbox that shifts more quickly than normal, or a misfire while in the gear. It is likely that your sensor is failing and requires to be replaced if you experience any of these symptoms. The good news is that they are quite affordable and easy to find particularly when you're looking at the Bosch unit which is what we have. Alternatively, the GM version of this part is also a good option.
5. Tachometer
A faulty engine speed sensor could be the cause of a slew of issues in your vehicle. It's an essential component of your audi car key's transmission, since it relays information to the ECU about how fast or slow the vehicle's crankshaft is rotating. This sensor could cause the transmission to malfunction and other components of the car to be affected.
The G5 engine sensor is located near the edge of the transmission, just above the flywheel ring. It sends signals via gray wire to ECU pin T55/49. The ECU utilizes this signal to control the amount of fuel and boost, and also timig. It also transmits it to the G5 Tachometer in instrument cluster. You can test the sensor audi tt replacement key for failure by examining the continuity between it and the tachometer, between the ECU pin T55/49 and the instrument cluster connection to pin T6a/1 (trace [79trace [79]) as well as between T6a/1, and the instrument cluster pin T26a/12. It should show around 1000 ohms of resistance between these two points. This part is common across the Audi Key Blade 80-100-200-RS2 series, starting from the 1985 MC all the way up to the 1997 UrS AN and the 1995 RS2 DU You may also find some good ones in wrecking yards.
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