Then use the holes of the PCB to bend the ends of the wire - insert cable so 2mm of wire (in regards to the thickness of the PCB) is seen between the top of the PCB and the start of the insulation, then bend 90 levels. This implies it's best to first cut lengths of 50mm after which strip 5mm of insulation of both end, after which bend the ends of the wires ninety levels about 2mm from the insulation, in direction of the ribbed facet. One of the best technique to strip the insulation from the wires is to lightly score with a knife on the flat facet, i.e. reduce half-means by way of the insulation, not slicing to the wire, then do small cuts between each wire (from the rating line to the tip), then pull off every little bit of insulation with pliers, being careful not to grip the wire too much and pull the wire out. It takes a while to put a blob of JB-Weld on 23 spots on the panel, making sure the blob is neither too massive or too small, and even with the non-Kwik stuff, in the direction of the top the JB-Weld was a bit too gooey, like peanut butter as an alternative of like honey.

20 hours of just waiting (yes you must do two separate gluing stages) may be torture however it is value it ultimately. Coupled with ready-made JST cables, this is a much less complicated approach and allows the two boards to be separated simply. Ensure that there aren't any SHORTS between any two adjacent pins of the ribbon cable joints. I bend it so the ribbed facet of the cable can be on the inside. This is barely potential if the switch shafts are all the same peak (which is able to happen if you've screwed the PCB and panel along with screws in all the threaded spacers). If you want to be professional about it, put all the screws in the spacers first, without screwing them in fully, then tighten them beginning with the center ones and moving out to the edges. I solder the shorter lead first, in order that the longer lead can be utilized to maneuver the LED in the event you need to regulate the LED position later. If any are usually not appropriate, you'll be able to heat up the joint and place the LED with pliers holding the lead, or a finger adjusting the unsoldered lead. Also the shorter lead is the cathode.

The flat facet has the cathode. Use clamps also if PCB isn't flat enough. The ideal length to make use of when connecting the PCBs and using a PT-10 case is around 42mm-43mm between the holes/pads on every PCB. Depending on the quantity of JB-Weld used on the nook screws, you would possibly must trim the PT-10 mount holes, making them like countersunk screw holes (tapered out). Even the normal JB-Weld gets really tacky and gooey inside a couple of minutes. Note There's a potentially higher technique mentioned on the boards (right here) which makes use of JST headers on the baseboard and either right-angled JST headers on the CS or just normal proper-angled SIL headers. Added a word on flashing the Professional radios with a RIB-less cable. Corrected the programming cable pinout for the GP900, it is the same as the MTSX sequence radios. Updated the Iden page with some data on the headset interface used with these radios. Fixed the links on the Utilities and Resources page. We are going to update this page as new information becomes available. October 17, 2002 -Ok, I'm beginning the massive replace. April 21, 2002 -We've got been on version 2 of the forum software for about a week now.

April 21, 2002 -Now we have been on model 2 of the discussion board software for about a week now. Luckily, due to the arduous work of our forum sponsor, we didn't free any of the previous posts either! You should have already examined the bottom PCB before now, so after inserting the grasp PIC and the 74HC595 and 74HC165 and connecting the LCD, you may turn it on and see if the switches and rotary encoders work. PCBs over. At this level, you'll need to lift the base PCB so it is degree with the CS PCB and panel (the rotary encoder knobs will increase this off the work surface). Most of these would have fallen into the panel holes already, it's best to check them all… Turn it panel facet up, test all of the LEDs are at the precise height. Put the LEDs within the panel holes. Test LEDs now if you wish…